Canton House - Buford Hwy in Chamblee

Canton House can be found at 4825 Buford Hwy, Chamblee, GA 30341 on the East side of Buford Hwy (that's on your right traveling North between Beverly Hills Dr and Laventure Dr - sounds like you're in LA, doesn't it?). The building has a tower facade that allows for a lot of natural light but appears small from the front. Don't let that fool you as this restaurant can seat plenty and usually fills up for weekend brunch.

To be honest, I've never had Canton House's regular menu - I've only come for the weekend brunch dim sum. I've only had dim sum in a handful of places in Atlanta and really the experience has been less than par. I was originally introduced to the concept in the West coast and the difference is stark both in quality, variety and pricing. If you're not familiar with the concept, you sit and get your drink order to your server while carts come by with various steamed, fried or otherwise cooked plates of food. Where I've had this in the west coast, the cost of each item was maintained by the size, color and shape of the container - at the end everything is stacked up and multiplied by a dollar amount for your total. That's the second thing that makes dim sum special, the larger your party, the more food you get to sample so it induces more of a familial style eating experience. So come prepared with your friends and family and don't be shy, even of the unfamiliar.

There will be many, many options, almost all with some variety of meat, usually seafood or shrimp (but there are a few chicken, beef and pork options). The hard part is remembering what you had in case something stood out and you want to order more - it might serve you well to write down what you liked or maybe photo and catalog as you go (I always try to do this but everyone grabs up everything so fast that it's hard to do - make sure you photo while it's in its container so you know when it comes around again). There aren't many vegetarian options - the Chinese Broccoli is delicious, not much else is sans meat (I'm sure I'm overlooking some other items but I'm not remembering them as I write).

The dim sum at Canton House, while it's probably the best you can get this close to town, is a little weak flavored when compared to what I was getting on the West coast. That being said, you'll still enjoy yourself as much as I do, just go with the flow and take anything that sounds interesting. You'll quickly establish your favorites. You really, really need to try everything to figure out what you like the best. Some favorites that most of my American friends like: crispy fried calamari, roasted duck, baked pork buns, steamed pork and rice in lotus leaf, and the steamed beef or pork buns (if they have the latter). The chicken feet are probably going to be too much for most but they are actually good, I just don't particularly like the texture myself but try them if you're feeling adventurous.

I do have a bit of a love-hate relationship with dim sum. I love the variety, the communal eating experience, and the great service at Canton House. I hate how full I feel afterwards - I need to bring someone with me to say "STOP!!" so I don't feel miserable afterwards. Yeah, I know, first world problem.

-- John

(shorter review also posted to Yelp)

Mellow Mushroom - Lavista Rd near Northlake Mall

This location of Mellow Mushroom is located at 4135 Lavista Rd, Tucker, GA 30084 in the Northlake Square shopping center, anchored by Best Buy. There are other restaurants nearby but with the exception of Bambanelli's on the other side of the mall, the others aren't worth visiting (IMHO).

I've visited this Mellow Mushroom for many, many years - it used to be located across the street in a much smaller location that pretty much only had room for a pizza pickup. This location, while much more expansive, is a bit weird in its layout - there's a tower at this corner of the strip mall that has a room under it that serves as overflow dining - I've rarely seen it used. When you walk in there's a foyer with a table for someone to seat you - you have the room that extends off to the right under the tower, a room to the left that's almost an open-air patio (but it's inclosed instead), regular dining inside to the left and then a decent sized bar to the right. It makes things a bit confusing if you're not used to the layout. But I digress...

This hands-down is my favorite Mellow Mushroom as I've consistently visited so often, I claim it as my own. Yup - this Mellow belongs to me, John E. I like the mural on the wall, done in a Van Gogh "Starry Nights" style with Mel and friends as 3D sculptures. There's also a giant mushroom in the foyer declaring to everyone that this is indeed the Kingdom of Shrooms! The full-bar tends to have a good selection of local craft brews or you can get your favorite cocktail. The service here is awesome, with super friendly people - even the traditionally surly pizza chefs in the back tend to be friendly here - it's indeed a neighborhood institution - I hope that never changes.

The menu is quite extensive with several "key" pies that MM has made famous, along with some variations to try, including the Bi-Yearly Home Grown Picks - these are pies suggested and selected by Mellow Mushroom employees. 

For pies, I remember the first few from the old location would occasionally have be a bit inconsistent - the pies they serve now are amazing in flavor, consistently and crispiness. I hate a soggy pizza and have very rarely had that problem here. Prices have gone up a bit since the old days, but it seems every place I like to visit has that same affliction. The crust at Mellow Mushroom is a whole-wheat blend that is quite delicious - they also offer a gluten-free crust for this inclined. My favorite pies are the Magical Mystery Tour and the Kosmic Karma - I think it says a lot that my faves are both veggie pies as I'm a die-hard omnivore. Both of these have very distinctive flavors.

We usually pair them with a Greek, Caesar or Spinach salad - the latter has whole strips of bacon making it an out-of-this-world experience. This is still a chain (though it did start in Atlanta) so, while more consistent than previously, there's a bit of that local charm that's now missing. Of course the trade-off is that now you pretty much get the same product at any location - the negative is that some of the items are pre-packaged (like the salad dressings) and I'm not confident in the quality of the ingredients (we tend to like whole foods and organics when we can get them - we especially shy away from high-fructose corn syrup). I still like the salads quite a bit - don't be fooled into eating a large though, the small is plenty. The dressings have become institutionalized but they still taste pretty much the same as what was served in the past.

I really also like the bar area in this location - they feature daily beer specials so belly up and enjoy something different, like a local or micro-brew. Ambiance is heavy on Van Gogh's "Starry Night" but I like how each location is tied together thematically. Oh and if you want to try a bread treat, go for the pretzels - fresh baked with parmesan cheese, served with a side of marinara - yum!.

-- John

(shorter review also posted to Yelp)

Papi's Cuban and Caribbean Grill - Tucker GA

This location of Papi's Cuban and Caribbean Grill is located at 4349 Lawrenceville Hwy, Tucker, GA 30084 in the large shopping center where Lavista Rd dead-ends into Lawrenceville Hwy. This shopping center is anchored by Walmart on the left and Kroger on the right - Papi's is on the far right, occupying the space where Buffalo's once help court. Careful crossing from the parking lot - the shoppers at this plaza aren't particularly sensitive to pedestrians.

So happy a Papi's opened close to the house - even with other popular Cuban cuisine restaurants nearby, Papi's is a welcome addition. I'm a big fan of Cuban cuisine - if you haven't had it, think Hispanic but not spicy-hot, with garlic, black beans and rice, and fried maduros (ripened plantains sauteed until soft). No tortillas, instead you get Cuban bread. The best stuff on the quite extensive menu has to do with pork, however the beef and fish dishes are also quite good (I've had the fish tacos here and they were quite good). Speaking of the menu, it has quite a few good quality color photos so you can get an idea of what you're ordering.

I've now eaten here a two dozen or so times and have had the following:

Roasted shredded pork in a garlic sauce - I had mine with the black beans and yellow rice and tostones. I thought this was good but I wish the pork was chunkier (it's shredded) - next time I'll try the Masitas de Puerco (closer to carnitas but without the onions and spicy sauce). The tostones were interesting but not my favorite - I think I'll stick to the maduros.

Vaca Frita - Shredded flank steak - cooked slowly so the meat is fork tender, then sautéed with grilled onions and garlic. Mine came with maduros and congris (this is a mix of rice and black beans and is quite good). So far this is my favorite - it doesn't appear on the regular inexpensive "daily specials" menu and for good reason - I think they fry this up to order, so it's a bit pricier than other items. I can get addicted to this stuff.

Ropa Vieja - this is also shredded beef but it's been cooked with tomato so it's got a different flavor to it - think of it as Cuban BBQ. I had this with black beans, white rice and plantains. This is good but the Vaca Frita is so much better that I think I'll get that when I want beef.

Jerk Chicken - not what I'm used to from other Caribbean restaurants, but still - large portion of big white-meat chicken chunks, seasoned and sauced (I guess it's supposed to be some type of jerk sauce - it's not bad but not what I would call traditional - I actually like the chicken better without) - had this with black beans, yellow rice and a small side salad (mango dressing). Good option for those who don't like beef or pork.

Fish Tacos - 3 soft-shelled tacos with fish (tilapia I believe), pico de gallo, white cheese, sauce and a few limes - you can also get this with shrimp. I liked these quite a bit, the seasoning was spot on and the portion size quite filling.

Cuban Sandwich - Smoked pork wrapped in ham, Swiss cheese, sour pickles, mustard, and mayo on Cuban bread -  had this for lunch with black beans and rice. Not the best Cuban sandwich I've had but large and filling. If you like pork you will like this sandwich - 'nuff said.

Papi's runs daily specials at $9.99  that drop during lunch to $7.25. I'd recommend any of the items on the specials menu, especially for lunch as there's plenty of food.

Jerk Chicken with salad and double beans

I've had one specialty drink - the Caribbean milkshake - basically fruit juices blended into a shake - good but very filling. I've also had some of the coconut flan which was very good - I've had better but this is still worth trying, especially if you're a coconut fan (as I am).

The service I thought very good - the Hispanic servers all speak very good English and were able to describe all items very well - ask them what they're favorites are if you're not sure what to order, especially on the sides. Don't bother going after 7:30-8:00 PM on Sunday as they close early (found out the hard way) even though they have 9:00 PM on the door. 

(a shorter version of this review also posted to Yelp)

JR's Log House Restaurant - Norcross at Peachtree Corners

JR's Log House Restaurant address is 6601 Peachtree Industrial Blvd, Norcross, GA 30092 and it can be found right off the Peachtree Corners exit of Peachtree Industrial Blvd. It's a large riven-log home made in frontier style - you'll smell the open pit as you approach. If the parking in front is filled-up there's on overflow lot towards the back/side that can accommodate quite a few more cars, trucks and trailers.

I've heard that JR's was an offshoot of Old Hickory House - story goes that one of the cooks for OHH and opened JR's as his own concept. I don't remember where I heard or read that - it's either on one version of the menu or from some trade publication.

The interior looks much as you would expect - a log cabin with exposed squared-up logs making up the walls, with large beams and rafters making up the ceiling/roof structure. If your a fan of this building technique then this is the spot you're been looking for. The staff here can range from indifferent to very enthusiastic and in general I've had very good service. JR's becomes incredibly busy during lunch - the interior can seat quite a few and I've seen it full. Try timing your visit slightly before or a bit after lunch and you'll be fine.

JRs is another one of those places that I visit for some specific dishes rather than for everything on the menu - here the Brunswick stew is exceptional - one of the best I've had - thick, slightly sweet with huge chunks of recognizable smoked meats. Meals here are served with your choice of cornbread or Texas toast.

Speaking of smoked meats, as I've mentioned this is a real open-pit deal - not too many of those around this close to the city. Plenty of rind and good smoky flavor in anything you purchase here. This is best represented in the ribs - the meaty loin can be gotten as "all you can eat" - just make sure you have the time to really enjoy them as they close at 8:30 - yeah I know, crazy huh?

One of the reasons the ribs are so tasty is due to the homemade sauce - it's not your typical fare - comes in a small bowl (shouldn't it always?) heated with pieces of tomato and on the tangy side. I also have tried many of the other sides and they have a whole chalkboard full of them (none are exceptional), but really go here for the ribs and stew (feeling glutinous, I usually get the ribs and a double order of stew). I've tried the pulled pork and it's not my style - it's mixed with a bit of sauce and I've never liked that, rather it were dry and dressed by me at the table.

I've heard the breakfast here rivals Old Hickory House - makes sense with the origin story. Thus far I've been too lazy or too busy to make it here for breakfast but will some day.JR's also has a rather popular drive-through which I think is awesome. I've always gone inside because I enjoy the ambiance and the huge drink glasses (get yourself some swee' tea folks!)...

The building is log cabin style - really, with exposed rafters and rough wood everywhere. The bbq is open pit and really smokey, if you're not a fan of that style go elsewhere - the staff is friendly but go early - as the evening goes on things slow down a bit. I used to make this a regular stop, I've since slowed down a bit as I always over-eat.

-- John

(shorter version of this review also posted to Yelp)